23.07.2019 NAPLES & AROUND

It’s a common problem the world over, with most major museum holdings far exceeding their available display space. In Naples, however, the sheer abundance of the material accumulated over more than three centuries of archaeological digs is only one of the issues. The other is a history of mismanagement, staffing problems and funding shortages that have rendered not only lesser items but also a good few masterpieces invisible for decades.

Naples Unlocks The Past L1010162


This is all changing under Paolo Giulierini, the dynamic director of Naples’ Museo Archeologico Nazionale (MANN). Since his appointment in 2015, this treasure trove of Classical art and culture has come on in leaps and bounds, refurbishing and reopening sections that had been closed for decades or were hardly ever open, inviting contemporary artists to dialogue with works in the permanent collection, and organizing exhibitions like the 2019 show ‘Canova and the Ancient World’, which brought in a record 300,000 visitors. Under Giulierini ‘s watch, MANN has even launched a video game based around its collections, Father and Son, which has been downloaded over 400,000 times.

Giulierini’s latest coup is the reopening, in July 2019, of the museum’s Magna Graecia collection, hidden from view since 1996. Focusing on pre-Roman Campania and Southern Italy, the collection charts the complex multi-ethnic world that existed here before the Roman conquest and continued to determine the life of cities like Pompeii, where Romans and Greeks rubbed shoulders with residents from North Africa, the Middle East, and further afield.

Naples Unlocks The Past L1010189

Among the highlights of the more than 400 works on display in the Magna Graecia rooms is a series of painted slabs of dancing women found in a tomb from Ruvo in Puglia, dated to between the late 5thand early 4thcenturies BC (see main picture above), and the Altamura Krater, a mid 4thcentury BC vase recently restored with the help of the Getty Museum that bears a rare portrayal of the dwelling of Hades and Persephone in the underworld.

Giulierini, whose early experiences on the job included watching a MANN security guard swallow the cigarette he’d been smoking as il direttore walked into the room, has more than doubled the number of visitors to the museum in the four years since he took on the job of director, from 280,000 in 2015 to over 600,000 in 2018. Among his aims for the future is the opening of a café, restaurant and auditorium, and a museum store in the basement which will be directly connected to the Museo station of the Neapolitan metro. Watch this space…

Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli
Piazza Museo 19, Naples

Open 9am-7.30pm, closed Tuesday

Photos © Roberto Salomone

Le Sirenuse Newsletter

Stay up to date

Sign up to our newsletter for regular updates on Amalfi Coast stories, events, recipes and glorious sunsets

From our


View all articles

A member of

Proudly included in